The build

There's a company in Pitlochry that makes kitchens out of Plywood, called Birkwood Kitchens, they supply and fit throughout Scotland. I'm not 100% sure where they fit in the Rolls Royce/Mondeo scale of Kitchens but, Ply is not an expensive base material to work with.

Alternatively, find someone locally that makes carcasses, I know of a company in Glasgow but, not sure if there's anyone closer to you. They will have access to a number of door manufacturers, if they sell OS Doors even better, as they make both modern and traditional styled foil wrapped doors, which are definitely in the second hand mondeo price bracket.

Going straight to a carcass manufacturer instantly makes your kitchen cheaper so your budget goes a little further, and as long as you know exactly what you want, they will happily supply you.

Here's OS Doors link. The Serica annotation is a finish that looks and feels like hand painted but, is actually a foil, it's really quite clever. Legno is a foil that has a wood grain and looks painted. The Loxley range in 5 piece has flexible horizontal rails that can be added to a door at any height allowing it to look more bespoke, and also relatively inexpensive to achieve.

I'm in the market that can do anything between Dacia and BMW, so I know both ends of the marketplace.

http://www.osdoors.com/kitchens/?category=Vinyl

Yeah we’ll probably just be going for carcasses. We’re going to be making our own doors & handles.
The timber has been drying for a couple of years (it’ll have another years drying  before we start on cupboard making)

   

I’d just like some suggestions how to lay it out. I change my mind and have different ideas every couple of day!

I’d love an all new kitchen but I know it’s a fancy. To be honest I’ll be lucky if I can afford a new cooker to go in it.
When I find the measurements of the kitchen, I let you have the measurements for the kitchen sink because we’ve already got that

Cool a labour of love but worth it, are you using the wood for worktops too or just doors? Have you the means to make your own frames and centre panels?

If you want to create a modern look to a traditional shaker styled door go narrow with the frame (stile) 70mm is very much in vogue now examples would be kitchen stori, Aldana or OS Doors, painted Monroe, whereas more middle of the road Shakers use a 90mm stile such as Burbidge, Barnes or PWS, Mornington. Then you have the full on traditional cottage vibe that use 110mm stile Such as kitchen stori Clonmel or Burbidge Lansdowne. Decide the look you are after before committing to chopping up that lovely timber.

And remember it’s always the handle that sets the style of your kitchen. Using dried and whittled twigs can give a rustic handmade feel.

It’ll just be door & draw fronts we make. Worktop will be an off the shelf number.
Idea in my head at the moment is something like this

   

Which turns out to be very similar to kitchen stori Clonmel. 
Handles will be turned and a different wood to the door or draw they’re going on. Also a very high chance all different size for a unique look ( this has nothing to do with the fact Bob can’t turn two things the same size     ).

Here’s the measurements

   

I’d like the kitchen, dining room to be about 50/50 split over the 6m length. But if the kitchen takes a little more that would be ok. Not too much as I do have a large dining table & 2 other large bits of furniture to fit in. So obviously I don’t want it to be a squeeze get seated at the table. 

Kitchen sink is a big double at 1.48m x 51cm (this could be changed if it’s an unrealistic ask to fit it in. Especially as we’ve got a commercial sink for the utility room)

Dining table is 1.80m x 90cm with 6 chairs, if that helps.

Hi SC,

The visual effect on that kitchen is classed as In-frame, where the door sits inside a wooden frame which is mounted onto the carcass. You can also mount the door directly onto the cabinet, this is called lay-on, lay-on is a much cheaper way to go and doesn't require the door to be quite so millimetre perfect. Normally for a 720mm high x 600mm wide cupboard you'd make a door, 715 x 596mm this gives you tolerance for the door to open without rubbing the adjoining doors using a standard kitchen hinge.
If you go inframe the door and frame is the exact same size as the carcass and you allow a 2mm space all around between door and frame.

Did you see my previous post on page 7 copying and doodling over your picture above?

What I need to know is the length of the walls around the windows so I know how much space I have to play with.

Have you got a picture of your sink? because that is a monster!!!

Looking at your plan, your room is 6 metres by 3.6 metres, natural light will travel a maximum of 6 meters into a space so your dining area is going to be quite dark. Playing devils advocate here, have you thought about swapping your kitchen and dining space around, so you can have tall cabinets against the darkest wall, and your peninsular in the middle of the room where it's lighter, and sit down to dine in the light?

Just a thought....goes and ducks.

sorry I’d completely missed this post    . The architect tried pulling that stunt to. The short answer is hell NO   . The long answer is I don’t want kitchen & utility room separated. The door leading off from the kitchen. I probably should of mentioned that’s what it was. Also don’t want people walking through the kitchen to the dining room. No one is aloud in the kitchen if I’m cooking for guests ( I taught Mr Ramsey everything he knows    ). 

I’ll do exactly what it says not to on the building warrant plans and scale off them to get you your wall measurements. It’ll be close enough for now, won’t it ?

Here’s the kitchen sink ( left hand side one ) other one is for the utility. No not swapping before you ask   . Utility room is tight on space too because it has to be my chilli nursery from December to April and it’s also the beer making room. Along with all the usual things you find in there.

   

Excuse the hard hats, but where else you supposed to keep them till you start building?    . Door fronts will definitely be lay-on. Didn’t know they were called that. I is learning stuff.
Thank you.

What is the dimension of the two bowl together I’m guessing around 900mm but just checking what size cupboard it needs to go into.

Have you thought about an island instead of a peninsular then the oven and hob don’t have to be squashed into that corner by the window? As your width is 3580, 600 cupboards one side 1000mm padding space either side of the island gives you a nice 1000mm width Island. Quick sketch to follow.

The reason your Architect and I are in agreement is you will always need a light on when sitting at the table. I normally wouldn’t walk through the kitchen to get to the island either but sometimes it’s easier to put tall items in the dark space and work in the light. Have you got a wider view of the ground floor, could you borrow light from either adjoining spaces, hall or lounge if that's what they are?

A few quick sketches attached for your thoughts on hob and sink locations, let me now your initial thoughts.

Mikey you’re a genius! I like the island idea. I’d not even considered that. Really like that idea. If it helps ( it will ) the fridge freezer will be in the utility. Well Actually it’s just a tall freezer, we’ve got an under counter fridge.

Hi Mikey
I'm Bob, SCs other half. I really like the idea of the island turned that way, not something we'd considered.
The architect was keen on putting a glass wall/window between the dinning room and the lounge but he got out voted! Maybe we should look at the idea again, it's a supporting wall but it's only a sips build so shouldn't be too hard to alter.
Anyway, here's the full plan albeit it's one of the older ones with the smaller windows in the kitchen