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I don't get too hung up on rotation tbh but I have a very loose rotation of Brassicas, Roots and other stuff.
Paths - mine are far too narrow at about 18 inches to 2 ft, I think if I did it again I'd go 2 1/2 to 3 foot. I'm always tripping or snagging my legs, depends on how clumsy you are I suppose Smile
Brassicas, alliums and nightshades are probably the more important things to rotate, I'm not very strict about it though, and even with rotation we get rust, white blister etc. most years. The gap between some of our beds is only just big enough for the lawnmower - not recommended! 2.5 feet sounds nice.
I’ve got a permanent bean row, a raspberries bed then 3 veg beds for brassicas, roots and legumes then things like courgettes, lettuce, spring onions, radishes and nasturtiums get planted in any gaps.

I just try not to plant the same crop in the same area two years running.

My beds aren’t raised they’re 42 inch wide with quarry tile paths and are developing more like mounds.
Right all, I've been out measuring my leylandii hedges, the short one on the west is just under 6m with the biggest gap between trees is 170cm. There are 3 leylandii after this length which are behind the shed which I'm planning on removing to give an angled entrance between the end and the shed.
The long side to the south is 21m and is made of 26 leylandii trees. They are in a pretty straight line. What are peoples thoughts on removing the branches etc from the leylandii to leave just the trunks (to whatever height we choose) and using feather edge boards horizontally between them to form a fence. Alternatively should I build a frame and attach fence panels? I am planning on doing both sides to make the fence decorative from both sides.
(06-02-2022, 03:02 PM)Jimny14 Wrote: [ -> ]Right all, I've been out measuring my leylandii hedges, the short one on the west is just under 6m with the biggest gap between trees is 170cm. There are 3 leylandii after this length which are behind the shed which I'm planning on removing to give an angled entrance between the end and the shed.
The long side to the south is 21m and is made of 26 leylandii trees. They are in a pretty straight line. What are peoples thoughts on removing the branches etc from the leylandii to leave just the trunks (to whatever height we choose) and using feather edge boards horizontally between them to form a fence. Alternatively should I build a frame and attach fence panels? I am planning on doing both sides to make the fence decorative from both sides.
Someone who lives close to me has bought a house with two large Laeylandi in the garden. Instead of taking them out to add more light to garden they have cut off all the lower branches up to about  8 foot high and created 'Lollipop' tress. It actually looks quite decent! Cool
Nice vinny, but one of the main reasons to removing the leylandii is to reduce the height of the hedges to increase views as well as light to the garden.
Personally I would bite the bullet and get them removed and put a conventional fence in if I had the cash. I have tried creative things in the past and they just haven't hit the spot. However if you are adamant that you will like the end result (rather than trying to cut costs or working with what you have) then go for it.
I agree with NG - I'd get rid of them too. The stumps would annoy me every time I see them, as an unfinished job unfortunately.
So next question regarding paths for around the new beds. I'm considering moving away from grass paths to reduce the need to mow as often during summer and to stop couch invading my beds. My thoughts are low maintenance and preferably beneficial to the local wildlife.
I have considered just dirt paths but am concerned they may become weed strewn. I thought about wood chips but am aware I would need to replace it every few years which may become costly.
Another thought that crossed my mind was to replace the grass with another green carpet, eg white clover, camomile? Thyme? A mixture? Something that could be walked on but wouldn't grow as high or as fast as grass. I don't mind mowing it from time to time.
If you find a low growing, low maintenance plant thatcan be walked on and doesn't take years to establish itself as ground cover or cost an arm and a leg to plant densely enough, please let me know.
I've tried thyme and chamomile - too slow to spread!
Daisies self seed and spread quite quickly.
Ajuga is attractive but takes time to cover ground. Same with Sweet woodruff.
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