Jobs to do in the garden this weekend
Scarlet Offline
Super Pest Controller
#1
ROSE PRUNING!

Don't leave it to late - these are best pruned January or February.

Established Shrub roses - cut down all stems to half the average height of the shrub. Don't worry about slanted cuts or cutting to a bud. Make sur all foliage is removed and cut stems disposed of - put in your green bin. 

Established Climbers. Cut all side shoots on each main stem to around 2 to 3 inches. Ensure all foliage is removed.  Tie in new stems. 

Easy.....it was my job today but it was so cold I've got 2 more climbers to do!
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JJB Offline
Moonraker
#2
(10-01-2021, 12:08 AM)Scarlet Wrote: ROSE PRUNING!

Don't leave it to late - these are best pruned January or February.

Established Shrub roses - cut down all stems to half the average height of the shrub. Don't worry about slanted cuts or cutting to a bud. Make sur all foliage is removed and cut stems disposed of - put in your green bin. 

Established Climbers. Cut all side shoots on each main stem to around 2 to 3 inches. Ensure all foliage is removed.  Tie in new stems. 

Easy.....it was my job today but it was so cold I've got 2 more climbers to do!

Thank you Scarlet. An excellent reminder, it has spurred me to get that done.  I believe it's time for pruning blueberries, currants and gooseberries,  am I right?  I chopped down some vigorous large flowered clematis too this last week.  I may have been a bit premature, I hope they survive the cold.
Gardening is an excuse not to do housework
Greetings from Salisbury
Qualified member of the Confused Nutter's Club 
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Scarlet Offline
Super Pest Controller
#3
Yes - taken from the RHS website

Gooseberries and redcurrant
"In winter, remove dead wood and low-lying shoots. Then spur prune all side shoots by cutting them back to one to three buds from the base. Shorten branch tips by one quarter, cutting to a suitable outward facing bud."

Blackcurrants
"Prune blackcurrants when dormant – from late autumn to late winter. They fruit best on younger wood, so when pruning aim to remove older wood, leaving the younger branches.

Up to and including the fourth year after planting, remove weak, wispy shoots, retaining a basic structure of 6 to 10 healthy shoots.

In year four, cut out about one-third of the older wood at the base, using a pair of loppers or a pruning saw. This will encourage and make room for younger, healthy wood. Also remove weak shoots and low ones leaning towards the ground."

This website always give fab advice -
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-...ckcurrants
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mcdood Offline
Member
#4
(10-01-2021, 11:33 AM)JJB Wrote:
(10-01-2021, 12:08 AM)Scarlet Wrote: ROSE PRUNING!

Don't leave it to late - these are best pruned January or February.

Established Shrub roses - cut down all stems to half the average height of the shrub. Don't worry about slanted cuts or cutting to a bud. Make sur all foliage is removed and cut stems disposed of - put in your green bin. 

Established Climbers. Cut all side shoots on each main stem to around 2 to 3 inches. Ensure all foliage is removed.  Tie in new stems. 

Easy.....it was my job today but it was so cold I've got 2 more climbers to do!

Thank you Scarlet. An excellent reminder, it has spurred me to get that done.  I believe it's time for pruning blueberries, currants and gooseberries,  am I right?  I chopped down some vigorous large flowered clematis too this last week.  I may have been a bit premature, I hope they survive the cold.
Regarding Blueberries the RHS advice is :-Prune any time over the dormant season (November to March), but ideally in late February or early March when the fruit buds can easily be distinguished from the leaf buds. 
So maybe leave it a bit later. I wish I could remember what I did to mine last Winter/Spring as I had an amazing crop last Summer.
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Broadway Offline
Member
#5
(10-01-2021, 02:04 PM)mcdood Wrote:
(10-01-2021, 11:33 AM)JJB Wrote:
(10-01-2021, 12:08 AM)Scarlet Wrote: ROSE PRUNING!

Don't leave it to late - these are best pruned January or February.

Established Shrub roses - cut down all stems to half the average height of the shrub. Don't worry about slanted cuts or cutting to a bud. Make sur all foliage is removed and cut stems disposed of - put in your green bin. 

Established Climbers. Cut all side shoots on each main stem to around 2 to 3 inches. Ensure all foliage is removed.  Tie in new stems. 

Easy.....it was my job today but it was so cold I've got 2 more climbers to do!

Thank you Scarlet. An excellent reminder, it has spurred me to get that done.  I believe it's time for pruning blueberries, currants and gooseberries,  am I right?  I chopped down some vigorous large flowered clematis too this last week.  I may have been a bit premature, I hope they survive the cold.
Regarding Blueberries the RHS advice is :-Prune any time over the dormant season (November to March), but ideally in late February or early March when the fruit buds can easily be distinguished from the leaf buds. 
So maybe leave it a bit later. I wish I could remember what I did to mine last Winter/Spring as I had an amazing crop last Summer.
Regards Blueberries I have 3 in pots that I'm planning transferring to the plot. Any advice re when to do this and if they are worth pruning, there's not much to them?
Regards..........Danny Smile
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mcdood Offline
Member
#6
When you say transfer to the plot do you mean still leave in pots or plant into the ground?. With regards to pruning if still small I would just take off any dead stuff and try to remove any branches that are crossing and may rub, but wait until buds form late Feb beginning March so you can see if bits are actually dead or just pretending.
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Broadway Offline
Member
#7
(10-01-2021, 02:38 PM)mcdood Wrote: When you say transfer to the plot do you mean still leave in pots or plant into the ground?. With regards to pruning if still small I would just take off any dead stuff and try to remove any branches that are crossing and may rub, but wait until buds form late Feb beginning March so you can see if bits are actually dead or just pretending.
Hello Mick

Pot to ground, I've ordered some ericaceous compost to line the holes.
Regards..........Danny Smile
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mcdood Offline
Member
#8
Hi Danny, I grow mine in large containers but I think like most fruit you'd be Ok planting around now if the ground is not frozen. You will likely be in for an ongoing acidity battle though depending on the normal ph of your soil. Keep mulching with acid generating stuff and water with rainwater when needed. Maybe someone with them planted in the ground can offer better long term advice.
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Broadway Offline
Member
#9
(10-01-2021, 03:02 PM)mcdood Wrote: Hi Danny, I grow mine in large containers but I think like most fruit you'd be Ok planting around now if the ground is not frozen. You will likely be in for an ongoing acidity battle though depending on the normal ph of your soil. Keep mulching with acid generating stuff and water with rainwater when needed. Maybe someone with them planted in the ground can offer better long term advice.
Is there a benefit to me leaving them in pots? (I would need larger ones)
Regards..........Danny Smile
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mcdood Offline
Member
#10
It definitely makes it easier to control the ph: plant in ericaceous compost, use rainwater, occasional feed (I use comfrey juice) and jobs a goodun. Downside is you will need to water more often in dry periods but watering is easier than ph control in my view.
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